This time the primary topic of all fashion conversations became the bedbugs, the real it-insects of the week. As per shows, brands continue to grow their selling potential by expanding the public coverage.
I would start with our team’s person coup de foudre: the designer from Thailand, who is also the Princess of the Kingdom of Thailand. Her Royal Highness Sirivannavari Nariatana Rajakanya.
This young lady has become a resident of the PFW, showcasing her exquisite collections in the fashion heart of the capital, luxurious Place Vendôme. Strategic place for everybody who is looking to encounter Anna Wintour or Bernard Arnault as they have a habit of lunch together in the Ritz.
Sirivannavari was inspired by the iconic Frida Kahlo for her spring-summer 2024 proposition. Precise cuttings, special attention to detail and a trendy yet authentic jewellery line – all these elements have become the designer’s signature.
Performance stays for some brands the important medium for customer attraction. This season it was Undercover who produced the most Instagram-likes effect: in the final three models materialised out of the darkness wearing strapless dresses whose skirts seemed to light up. Inside there was a whole botanical garden consisting of flowers, greenery, and real butterflies.
Another visually striking show was the Mugler. After the H&M collaboration in May when some of the pieces were sold out in minutes after appearing online and the bee costume reinterpreted the original Thierry’s item from the spring 1997 collection worn by Beyoncé at her Renaissance tour later on, Casey Cadwallader got the confidence to approach the brand’s founder aesthetics closer.
For summer the designer has channelled his love of octopuses and jellyfish into high-voltage and theatrical looks. With the impressive cast included the top Mariacarla Boscono (who opened the show), Paris Hilton, Angela Bassett, Helena Christensen and Fan Bingbing.
Sara Burton left Alexander McQueen after 26 years. In the press statement, she wrote “the show is dedicated to Lee Alexander McQueen, whose wish was always to empower women, and to the passion, talent, and loyalty of my team.” Did she manage to introduce something new, something of “Burton’s” into the DNA of the brand?… New designers will perhaps face the challenge of the legacy rebranding, brushing up a bit the Lee’s universe, certainly genius, but which is maybe need to be refreshed.
On the last day of Fashion Week, Kering (the owner of the brand) released a statement announcing the appointment of the new creative director. The Burton’s successor is a Irish-born London-based designer, Sean McGirr. The newcomer who is yet unknown to the fashion press, has come with a prestigious CV. A graduate of Central Saint Martins which most recently worked at JW Anderson for the ready-to-wear line.
Last catwalk for Gabriela Hearst at Chloé as well: “I see myself as a link in the chain”, says the designer backstage. Chloé is reputed for the clothes “designed by women for the women”. Thus, sustainability plays an important role in the brand’s policy and Hearst who led the creative direction of the company for three years can be proud of her efforts regarding this issue. The show ended up with Gabriela leading the dancing, with models, amongst whom was the Mangueira Samba school of Brazil.
Sustainability is at the core of Duran Lantik’s brand DNA. The Dutch designer showed his second collection in Paris, which has become first official on-calendar.
“At the moment I’m really experimenting, trying to find my handwriting…I started with combing clothes and pieces, and now I am really thinking about shape,” said the designer backstage. POV, his ‘handwriting’ is already quite recognisable: the MET Costume Institute together with V&A and the Stedelijk Museum has acquired his works for their permanent collections.
Can we not talk about Balenciaga while reviewing the fashion week? You know the answer. After the last ready-to-wear offer was restrained by not very pleasant effects of the brand’s controversial campaign in 2022 Demna came off with a very personal and probably his “most favourite” up-to-date collection. ..” Because it was about me; it was about my story…I have to be honest: I don’t care much about luxury. I don’t want to give people a proposition to look like they’re rich or successful. Because ‘luxury’ is top down, and why is often seen as quite provocative about me is – I do bottom-up”.
The show opened with Gvasalia’s mother, followed by the cast of family and friends.
“I have to be me. I can’t repress my creativity. I can’t citrate my vision. I just can’t do those things. So this collection is a celebration of everything that I love about fashion.”
Some of the models were carrying the faux passports with boarding cards to Geneva (where Demna lives), which turned out to be the wallets.
The soundtrack is worthy to be mentioned as well: it was made by Demna’s husband, Loik Gomez also known as BFRND. The prominent French actress, Isabelle Huppert, was reading out the instructions for tailoring a jacket.
Photo credits: Vogue Runway, Vera Pakhai @vera.parisphoto
