15 May

Clotilde Courau wore a black silk tulle gown partially embroidered with beads and sequins, from the ELIE SAAB HAUTE COUTURE Spring-Summer 2013 collection.

Russian top model Tanya Dziahileva chose a fully embellished, white gown from GEORGES HOBEIKA Spring-Summer 2013 Couture collection for the premiere of “The Great Gatsby”.

16 May

Emma Watson wore a long off-white silk crepon dress with black embroidered sequins on top, from the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2013 Haute-Couture Collection for the presentation of ”The Bling Ring”.

Fan Bing Bing, a very loyal friend of the Elie Saab house, wore a pale yellow gown with an embroidered bodice, with three-quarter sleeves and a leather bow belt – and a matching blue clutch – from the ELIE SAAB HAUTE COUTURE Spring-Summer 2012 collection. On the same day she also chose a black fully-embroidered gown, with lace ruffles on the neckline, bust, sleeves and skirt, from the ELIE SAAB HAUTE COUTURE Fall-Winter 2012/2013 collection.

17 May

Once again Fan Bing Bing attended a lunch hosted by Chopard wearing a stone-coloured fully embroidered knee-length dress with a high collar, open back and lace hem from the ELIE SAAB HAUTE COUTURE Fall-Winter 2012/2013 collection.

18 May

Carina Lau attended the “Bends” photocall wearing a light purple knee-length dress with embroidered details from the ELIE SAAB HAUTE COUTURE Spring/Summer 2012 collection. For the premiere she also chose a marble white crepe cady sleeveless gown with embroidered bodice and cape from the ELIE SAAB HAUTE COUTURE Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

19 May

Milla Jovovich wore a long geometrical printed chiffon embroidered dress from the CHANEL Spring/Summer 2012 Haute-Couture Collection for Vanity Fair dinner.

Aishwarya Rai attended the premiere of ‘Inside Llewyn Davis’ wearing a black lace gown with embroidered lace guipure gown and embroidered floral application from the ELIE SAAB HAUTE COUTURE Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

Ahna O’Reilly wore a cocktail dress with a Swarovski embroidered top and floral printed skirt from GEORGES HOBEIKA Spring/Summer Couture 2013 collection.

20 May

Milla Jovovich wore a long black and white embroidered dress with a floral pattern, from the CHANEL Spring/Summer 2013 Haute-Couture Collection and a black leather clutch with strass for the ”Blood Ties” red carpet appearance.

21 May

Karmen Pedaru attended the De Grisogono event wearing a teal lace dress with draped V neckline, embroidered guipure panel on the sleeves and skirt, from the ELIE SAAB Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012-2013 collection.

Dita von Teese attended the premiere of “Cleopatra” wearing a red lace three-quarter length sleeved cocktail dress with embroidered details, from the ELIE SAAB Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

22 May

Zhang Ziyi wore a strapless dress in organza entirely embroidered with navy blue sequins and gold beads, from the CHANEL Fall/Winter 2009/10 Haute-Couture Collection for the presentation of the “Only God Forgives”.

Astrid Berges-Frisbey wore a white tweed short dress covered in black lace, from the CHANEL Spring/Summer 2013 Haute-Couture Collection.

Petra Nemcova attended the “All is Lost” premiere wearing a light coral, fully-embroidered long-sleeved gown, from the ELIE SAAB Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2012 collection.

26 May

Zhang Ziyi attended the premiere of “La Venus à La Fourrure” wearing a lilac fully-embroidered lace gown, and a matching thin leather belt, from the ELIE SAAB Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2013 collection.

However not only women can profit from the most exclusive and luxuary wear. The French house SMALTO is known for their exclusive “men couture” creations that were chosen by the triumphant directors Abdellatif Kechiche and Amat Escalante.

Photo credits: Chanel, Elie Saab,  Georges Hobeika / Getty Images / WireImage

To get into the spirit of the presented collection, it is not necessary to fly to the distant tropical island. Just travel one century back to the French resort of Deauville on the Normandy coast, where the young and still little known outside of the capital milliner Gabrielle Chanel opened her first “provincial” boutique, dedicated, first and foremost, to so indispensable on sea resort hats. Mini-movie called «Once upon a time», shot by Karl and demonstrated at the launch of the collection perfectly conveys the carefree atmosphere and unobtrusive luxury of that period of the creative life of the legendary Mademoiselle. Because the life of Gabriel, same as of her great successor, is inseparable from creativity.

Thirty-years-old Gabriel is in love with a handsome dandy and English polo player Arthur Edward Capel, the “Boy” – a nickname coined for her lover by Chanel herself. His influence on the designer, directly reflected in her creations of this period, Karl relays into the summer of 2014 by broad jersey trousers with a high waist and masculine tweed jackets. The look is complemented by dozens of pearl strands, flowing in long clusters in the form of necklaces and bracelets wrapped around wrists. “More is less” in this case harmonizes with the general atmosphere, filling with feminity the deliberately boyish image.

Continuing the theme, the “sport chic” is presented in ensembles of unisex trousers, fastened by a wide elastic band at an ankle, which designer masterfully combines with short jackets and classic cream-colored pumps with signature black toes.

Long fitted dresses, ingeniously cut in front and covering the “ugliest, according to Chanel, part of the female body” – the knee, bring the lady-like note to the overall relaxed atmosphere of the resort idleness.

Chic bathrobes, worn over jersey bathing suits (do you really think for a second that a real lady would go to swim in one of them?) remind us of the proximity of the beach; while few short mini-dresses as if for a moment bring us back: drawing inspiration from the past, Karl never forgets about the present.

Behind the apparent ease and simplicity of the cut lie real works of art: hand embroidery, delicate lace and appliques, secret of which is known only to Karl and his craftsmen who have spent hundreds of hours of painstaking work, the result of which is worthy of constant admiration.

Ah yes, the influence of Singapore nevertheless was reflected in the colors of the collection – black and white, giving a geometric structuring to the image. Exactly same black-and-white woven curtains, according to the designer, decorate the local traditional dwellings of the islanders. And it does not matter if they only exist in the imagination of the great Master, because the island only wins from such associations.

Please note that this article is covering a prêt-à-porter collection.

Photo credits: CHANEL

Nathalie Colin, the Creative Director of the company, took up the post in 2006. Nathalie does not cease to amaze the charmed audience with her talent, each new season inviting us to a fairy trip into a bewitching world of magic invented by her, embodied in a frozen and at the same time volatile multi-faceted beauty of the stone.

The new fall-winter 2013-2014 jewelry collection is named «Secret Treasures». This theme is inspired by memories of the imaginary journey by the Great Silk Road, which runs from medieval China to the Himalayas, and then through multicolor India to distant Venice. Natalie, a passionate traveler, admits that the creation of the collection was influenced by her trips to Asia. In the “Secret Treasures” she placed the legends of the past into a contemporary context, combining seasonal fashion trends and the timeless consistency of style.

In the “Chinese” part of the collection the oriental symbolism of yin and yang is illustrated in the “Stone” theme, while the “Velour” is inspired by the unique weaving of traditional, amazing by their flexibility, Chinese costumes. It is worth paying attention to the big earrings – a key trend of the season.

“Himalayas” are represented by organic line that reflects the magical beauty of the “Roof of the World” – disappearing in the clouds mountains, vast forests and harsh silence of eternal glaciers. In harmony with the nature, this part of the collection is characterized by cold winter tones.

To create a rich in color “Indian” line, Natalie invited to cooperate Shourouk – a talented jewelry designer of Tunisian origin. Shourouk, having previously used Swarovski crystals in their own collections, this time on a request of the creative director of Swarovski created within the “Secret Treasures” the necklace “Vanity” – a massive and at the same time flexible necklace, in which the crystals are attached to the braided cord.

In the “Venice” comes to life the Baroque theme with the splendor of misty palaces and squares. Metal bracelets in the form of cuffs, which became a bestseller, are covered with a layer of pink gold. Bracelet “Vermeil” – the quintessence of this part of the collection – attracts the attention by a large cabochon in the center, the surface of which is composed of small hand-placed crystals.

Versatility, adaptability to any situation – be it a daily trip to the office or a special occasion, the principle that guides Nathalie Colin when creating her collections, is modern and timely. After all, in the age of mass consumption this is jewels that help us maintain our individuality.

Photo credits: Swarovski

The interest of mass media in the event was clear: many fashion magazines and TV channels were tirelessly interviewing famous designer. To support maestro came his friends – Sarah Marshall, Marie-Anne Shazel, Sylvie Tellier, Audrey Lamy, Frederick Bell, Anthony Delon, Anna Shcherbinina, and many others.

The new collection of Jitrois is inspired by his childhood memories of the elegant beauties who, arm in arm with their husbands, could have been seen during the festival in Aix-en-Provence. Sophisticated silhouettes, which impeccable architectural structure is expressed in slimming belts and corsets adding certain theatricality to toilets, form the basis of the collection.

The show started with classical models of light tones (beige, pale pink, warm milk), gradually moving to more vivid colors and bold cut. Perfecto, fur collars, the famous leather patch-work leggings, flared skirts in fitted silhouette, fitted overalls – and, finally, a sheer long dress, trimmed with leather fringe…

Jean-Claude Jitrois once again managed to amaze us, playing with leather as if it was a simple tissue, interpreting it in direct graphic forms and in draping, giving it a whole new elegance.

Please note that this article is covering a prêt-à-porter collection.

Photo credits: Matthew Thomas / Jitrois

Except for a few fashion houses, whose clients traditionally prefer to walk on the sunny side of life, regardless of the financial and other troubles, the majority of Parisian collections were dominated by the dark shades. This, above all, is the reigning black. In a mini-dress made of the finest pony skin with transparent sleeves from Akris, in the Gothic version à la Nosferatu at Gareth Pugh; military-chic karakul cap with at John Galliano or classic bustier dresses of Christian Dior and Lanvin – not a single show without black.

White, the antipode of the “king of colors”, is also commonly present in the Parisian collections of the coming full. But, contrary to its traditional symbolism of youth and purity, this time it rather suggests to turn the page and calls to start the life story from scratch. Bourgeois at Giambattista Valli, prudently-ascetic, as if inspired by the image of Swiss private schools boarders, at Valentino, minimalistic at Isabel Marant, with a touch of futurism at Maison Martin Margiela. Even the “doll” dresses of Maxime Simoens and Nina Ricci, implemented in the milky scheme, are imbued with aesthetic innocence, devoid of even a hint of provocation.

Stylistically winning combination of the two basic colors: black and white, as the elements of Yin and Yang, is designed to balance the gray fall routine in a hope for the coming spring change. CD and Costume National, Balenciaga and Viktor & Rolf, Vanessa Bruno and (who would have thought!) so far from casual Zuhair Murad – the fall-winter collections has no shortage of the classic B/W pair. For connoisseurs of impeccable luxury it is worth noting the costume of black jacket with a pencil skirt, which Alber Elbaz (Lanvin) supplemented by a casually thrown over the shoulders white fox boa.

Gray, yet another undisputed favorite of the podiums, requires special attitude. In order not to pass for a “gray mouse”, feel free to choose one of the combinations of this so beloved by Parisians color: a karakul dress with a wide belt and an original hood at Jean-Paul Gaultier or a classic hourglass silhouette coats from CD; casual “effortless chic” of Chalayan and Giambattista Valli; unobtrusive military touch in a jacket with a stand-up collar at Lanvin; practical minimalism at Martin Grant and Céline; drapes at Haider Ackermann; femininity from Vanessa Bruno and Cacharel or theatricality at Gareth Pugh.

The invariable “Parisian” color alternative – red in all its tonalities and textures – is also not ignored by designers of the world capital of fashion. In leather, like Loewe and Jean Paul Gaultier, whose leather shirts are made in the style of military armor, in a fur coat with royal zibeline collar at Valentino; in cozy velvet suits like Zadig & Viltaire or dark cherry maxi-jackboots, like at Paule Ka – designers urge to not stick to the traditional red evening dresses à la “femme fatale”. Besides, the main Parisian secret weapon – carmine lipstick – is still a great accessory for those who are somewhat confused of a total red look.

If you are bored with the red or it feels too defiant, you can get help from more tranquil shades of dark (Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Valentino) or light blue (Emanuel Ungaro, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac), aubergine (Balmain) and fuchsia. The last one, that can be found, for example, in the collection of Dries Van Noten, hardly meets the definition of calm colors, but it will undoubtedly create a festive bright mood decorating a chilly winter morning in Paris in exotic palette.

In anticipation of the spring on the runways and in the hearts, the lovers of prints will be left to be satisfied by minimalist designs. Look for delicate flowers on dresses of Rue du Mail and, traditionally, at Christian Dior, whose creative director Raf Simons continues to be inspired by the Norman garden of the founder of the fashion house. Not less awesome are floral variations in the collection of undisputed “King of prints” – Belgian Dries Van Noten, who, by the way, also spends a lot of time in his country house, surrounded by a beautiful garden. Less romantic, made in the spirit of urbanism bordering with pop-art, prints can be found in the collections of Givenchy, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Felipe Oliveira Baptista. While for “animals” prints you should address the Maison Rabih Kayrouz and Giambattista Valli. On Lanvin dresses crawl and fly beetles and butterflies: in his new collection of prêt-à-porter Alber Elbaz turned to the world of insects. Only Manish Arora is always true to himself and his psychedelic mood that the designer is from India easily transfers on the clothes created by him.

Trends of the cut in the new fall-winter season also prefer moderation and comfort. The coat, that is “the must” for fashionistas of the next winter, designers offer to wear loose, oversized, as if taken from a male shoulder (Céline, Gaimbattista Valli, Stella McCartney, Roland Mouret, LV, Carven). The same idea of unisex is ported to all the elements of the female wardrobe, once borrowed from monsieur: slacks at Haider Ackermann, jackets a couple of sizes bigger than the tiny girls’ shoulders at Vanessa Bruno, men’s shirts with size-less cuffs at Maison Martin Margiela. Classical fitted coats remained only at the conservative Christian Dior.

Fashion trends do not always abide by the strict laws of logic. Sometimes two completely opposite trends become fashionable. Thus, in contrast to a wide oversize, the next season is no less valid for shortened, baring ankle pants. Narrowed, like at Akris, Barbara Bui and Haider Ackermann or broader like at Emanuel Ungaro and Paul & Joe or deliberately flared like at Yohji Yamamoto. Despite the fact that some designers offer to combine an open ankle with male boots (Lanvin) and flat loafers (Paule Ka), high heels in this case would, in my opinion, be more appropriate. Slimming and visually lengthening the leg, they will emphasize the advantages of your figure, masking the possible flaws, and will complete your trendy look.

Sweaters transform from winter necessity into one of the inevitable fashion trends of the coming season. Designers surprised us with a variety of textures, colors and cuts: this cozy element of the wardrobe deserves a separate dedicated article. Especially if it is a soft fluffy angora (Jay Ahr, Balmain, Mugler), or a high neck (Haider Ackermann, Viktor & Rolf, Carven), a big knit (Céline, Zadig & Voltaire, Givenchy), with a long fleece (Sonia Rykeil), or even transformed in a mini-dress (CD, Akris). Easily combined with other types of clothing, be it pants, skirts or (why not?) a knitted body (Vivienne Westwood) – sweaters leave us a lot of space for fashion experiments.

Despite numerous protests from the PETA adepts, the fur (and not always artificial), was widely present on the catwalks on the Paris prêt-à-porter week. An absolute “must have” of the next fashion winter is a short fur coat. In the youngster version it could be made of rabbit fur with a fox fur trimming at Zadig &Voltair; with wide folding collar at Emanuel Ungaro; milky, from a long-haired fur of a mountain goat at Loewe; black astrakhan, slightly elongated at Miu Miu; bicolored, with a zipper at Givenchy; pale blue at Kenzo or black and brown from an artificial fox fur with three-quarters sleeves at Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. An ideal winter accessory, it will perfect any look, be it a floor-length evening dress or casual jeans.

An intermediate to a fur coat – a sheepskin coat, unjustifiably avoided by many Parisian couturiers before, gets its legitimate rights in the future cold season. Short or long, loose or fitted, dark, milky or … yellow – for every taste and color. The most original versions check at Gareth Pugh, whose new collection, traditionally imbued with the spirit of neo-Gothic architecture, seems to be the most realistic one of those presented by this designer to the public so far.

Depersonalizing black, anti-feminine oversize, coats hiding the silhouette – all make an impression that the future conformism leaves no room to eccentric characters, for whom the “epatage” is rather a rule of the fashion game than an exception… But there is always a way out! Sheer, triumphantly ascended to the podium a few seasons ago, continues to be relevant. False-shy at Akris and LV, laced at Barbara Bui, minimalist at Julien David and Chanel, with a light touch of nineties at Saint Laurent, texture contrasting at Ann Demeulmeester.

Evening and cocktail goings out, drowned in the post-crisis mood, are saved by the foreign designers. Bordering with theatrical costumes of Sarah Burton for Alexander McQeen, made in the spirit of Queen Elizabeth; a Victorian “drowned” of the ageless London rebel Vivien Westwood; vulnerable grace of weightless sylphs, created by a Spanish designer duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli for Valentino; Parisian chic of the sixtieths revived again by the Azzaro house and, of course, Hollywood luxury gowns of Lebanese Zuhair Murad and Russian Valentin Yudashkin, who seems to have animated on the podium the characters from our beloved fairytale “The Snow Queen”. Snow-white, with a bluish crystal glittering, fragile, which combines different types of furs and is infinitely feminine – the collection of literally takes spectators into the icy Nordic palace of the Queen, who is watching from her crystal throne the games of her young captives Kai and Gerda.

Hats and other headgear which, thanks to the Russian haute couture designer and a street-look queen Ulyana Sergeenko, whose thoroughly thought looks rarely go without this accessory, from the remnants of the past turned into an integral part of the wardrobe of a modern fashionista. The most interesting variations check in the collection of Yohji Yamamoto, who did not limit himself to one style but created as many as five different looks from a London dandy to a modern “chapeau claque”.

Classic pumps, patented by Parisians, had long ago migrated to the category of stylistic concepts and will hardly ever go out of fashion. If the last winter weather trend is to continue in the upcoming fall-winter season, and Paris will be wrapped again in a cloak of snow, safely hide your delicate legs in trendy jackboots. They were present in almost all the looks of Chanel catwalk, which is a clear indicator of their timeliness in the capricious fashion-world.

Photo credits: Akris, Alexander McQeen, Ann Demeulmeester, Azzaro, Balenciaga, Barbara Bui, Cacharel, Carven, Céline, Chalayan, Christian Dior, Costume National, Dries Van Noten, Emanuel Ungaro, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Gareth Pugh, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Haider Ackermann, Isabel Marant, Jean Paul Gaultier (Patrice Stable), Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, John Galliano, Julien David (Shoji Fujii), Lanvin, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, Maison Martin Margiela, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Martin Grant, Maxime Simoens, Miu Miu, Mugler, Nina Ricci, Paul & Joe, Paule Ka, Roland Mouret, Rue du Mail, Saint Laurent, Sonia Rykeil, Stella McCartney, Valentin Yudashkin, Valentino, Vanessa Bruno, Viktor & Rolf, Vivienne Westwood, Yohji Yamamoto, Zadig&Viltaire

This year the fashion jury headed by Felipe Oliveira Baptista (Lacoste) received 355 entries from young designers of 60 different nationalities. The selection was done in two stages. An initial pre-selection resulted in 53 entries being chosen. The final selection of ten most promising designers took place on 27nd January 2013 in Paris. They will present to the public their first collections in a series of fashion shows directed by Maïda Gregori-Boina.

Shortlisted designers:

Tomas BERZINS & Victoria FELDMAN, Latvia-Russia, Women collection

Camille KUNZ, Switzerland, Men collection

Yvonne Poei-Yie KWOK, Netherlands, Women collection

Marion de RAUCOURT, France, Women collection

Shanshan RUAN, China, Women collection

Henning JURKE, Germany, Men collection

Xénia Lucie LAFFELY, France-Switzerland, Men collection

Satu MAARANEN, Finland, Women collection

Damien RAVN, Norway, Women collection

Xing SU, Canada, Women collection

Photo credits: Brea Souders / Festival of Hyeres

Jury:

Felipe Oliveira Baptista (Head of the Jury). Fashion designer, creative director Lacoste, Paris

Liesbeth Abbenes. Photographer, Amsterdam

Delphine Roche. Associate editor-in-chief, Numéro magazine, Paris

Maurice Scheltens. Photographer, Amsterdam

Imran Amed. Editor-in-chief, The Business of Fashion, London

Barbara Coutinhon. Director, MUDE – the Musuem of Design and Fashion, London

Mark Holgate. Fashion news director, Vogue US, New York

Paula Reed. Fashion director, Harvey Nichols, London

Floriane de Saint Pierre. CEO Floriane de Saint Pierre & Associés, Paris

For more information visit www.villanoailles-hyeres.com

This delicate flower, a symbol of chastity and longevity in Asia, won the heart of Mademoiselle Chanel, which, from 1923, made it one of the essential elements of her style: in a form of a brooch adorning the hair, engraved on buttons of a suit, in embroidery or laces – camellia became the signature of the Chanel House.

At this time, the craftsmen of the Chanel jewelry line directed all their creative imagination to create a real garden blooming camellias from pearls and diamonds. Necklaces, earrings, bracelets, watches, brooches and rings – all variations of camellia theme reveal to us the fantasy world of the famous brand.

Flowers with reflexed petals, reminding us of the Japanese folding paper figures art, camellias of white and black diamonds in the famous black and white contrast, or black enamel camellia, covered with white and yellow diamonds – just like the Coromandel lacquer panels that decorated the apartments of Mademoiselle Chanel … The collection is a testament to how you can take a new look at a seemingly familiar character.

Precious and semi-precious stones – diamonds, pearls, multicolored sapphires, garnets, tourmalines and opals – sparkle playfully on the airy, almost lacy, collets of yellow and white gold.

Signet ring from the Camélia Crinoline series – white diamonds on white gold – resembles a flower with transparent silk petals. The same can be said of the bracelet from the same set that elegantly decorates the wrist with two “lace” camellias.

Chanel’s black-and-white contrast is expressed in Ruban de Camélia, in which are white diamonds are combined with black spinel and onyx. Camellia petals, forming multi-layered rows, are decorated with black diamonds on the edges.

The necklace from the series, which is called Contraste de Camélia, is formed by two strings of pearls – one large and one small – with a pendant in the form of black-white-gray camellia from white coral, diamonds, gray sapphires and onyx.

Yet another set, based on the black-and-white contrast – Duo de Camélias (“Duet Camellia”) – is an interweaving of spherical forms, which are used in the same spinel, opal and diamonds.

“A little bit of sun in cold water” – one could dub the series Camélia Solaire, where the white gold of collets goes side by side with yellow gold and threads of white diamonds – with their yellow counterparts.

The choice of camellias in the new Chanel jewelry collection amazes: “exotic”, “tasty”, “patchwork”, “water” … “cable trimmed”!

Being the heart of all the collections of the famous fashion house, this rare flower gains new relevance and finds its rightful place in the most beautiful gardens of Paris.

Photo credits: CHANEL

The heroine of Zuhair, according to him, is glamorous, but by no means vulgar. Her luxurious wardrobe, with no place for ordinariness, is inspired by sculptural creations of the late Renaissance, but at the same time is the most up-to-date. Evening dresses, that turn a woman into a queen, have been already appreciated by many Hollywood celebrities, shining in Zuhair Murad gowns on red carpets of high-society events around the world.

Cascades of tulle and chiffon, embroidery, custom made by the pillars of French haute couture – Vermont and Lesage houses; deep lateral slits; brocade suit with open back; mini-dresses, designed like a corset; transparent fabric with micro-pearls, “tattooed” on it as if it was a skin; the cape, embroidered with rooster feathers, hand dyed be the craftsmen of Lemarié atelier. By bringing together the best Parisian masters of haute couture, which helped him in his work on the collection, Zuhar Murad created a real work of art in each look. The apogee of the show was the bodysuit, entirely embroidered with gold sequins and pearls.

The shades of pale blue, ice, pale green and pale pink only accentuate the base color motif that is concordant with the name of the collection – gold.

Photo credits: Zuhair Murad

Be it a day or evening dress – in each one you can feel the breath of the spring, and this feeling stays throughout the show.

New muses of George Chakra confidently stride through life to a fast beat of today. They do not doubt in their own irresistibility: slim bright dresses of fine fabrics – silk, tulle, guipure, organza and chiffon – make them the most seductive.

Transparent inserts, together with a mix of juicy shades and a pale pink, add originality and sex appeal to short “mini” dress, creating the illusion of nudity.

George Chakra show, which was attended by many celebrities, among which one could see Chantal Thomas, Mareva Galanter and others, once again confirmed his reputation of a “star couturier”.

Photo credits: MSW

The collection was named Artisanal, and we must recognize that it reflected very much the style. Here and there the edges were left unworked and threads were sticking out. The shoes, those famous white shoes, became part of the collection.

Creating their collections, Maison Martin Margiela love to use materials and objects hardly associated with Haute Couture. This time dresses were made of shiny foil, reminding candy wrappers. The urge to touch them was uncontrollable. A refined gentleman, sitting opposite to me, managed to touch one of the dresses. However, realizing that this was noticed, he just shrugged his shoulders as if to say that he was not able to resist. And I understood him perfectly. This fabric of square foil wrappers sewn together tempted our minds and hands to reach out to it. The coat-dress shined with silver and some craziness, with that special, unreachable and attractive style Maison Martin Margiela.

Photo credits: Maison Martin Margiela

Extremely feminine, with a predominance of warm pastel tones, the collection gives the impression of harmony and a certain “maturity” of the designer. In it classic lines are replacing boyish “carelessness” of asymmetric cut and sometimes eccentric volumes of previous seasons. That does not mean the loss of the identity of Alexis Mabille. Its elements are reflected in signature bows appearing here and there, in pleated airy folds on tops and skirts, in a very stylish floor-length black dress, imitating a man tuxedo, or in a red, appearing closer to the finale, sheath dress with an original neckline in the form of the same, favorite by Alexis, bow.

Very soon we will find out, if, in its turn, prêt-à-porter collections of Alexis will become more “prudent” after the “grown-up” couture.

Photo credits: Alexis Mabille

7th February, Vienna Opera Ball

Hilary Swank attended the Vienna Opera Ball, wearing a nude embroidered evening gown, from the ELIE SAAB Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2012 collection.

9th February, Berlin International Film Festival

Anne Hathaway wore a short dress in pleated navy blue silk chiffon with trim embroidered with black patent leather, crystals and pearls, and train hemmed with ruffles in navy blue silk chiffon and black tulle from the CHANEL Fall-Winter Haute-Couture 2009/10 Collection.

Amanda Seyfried chose a blue lace evening gown, from the ELIE SAAB Spring-Summer 2013 collection.

10th February, BAFTA Awards (London)

Elizabeth Olsen wore a long dress in dark blue organza entirely embroidered with silver sequins, dark blue feathers and organza camelias, from the CHANEL Fall-Winter Haute-Couture 2011/12 Collection. She was also wearing a long coated black coat from the CHANEL Fall-Winter Haute-Couture 2005/06 Collection.

Amy Adams attended the Bafta Awards wearing a black embroidered lace and silk chiffon evening gown, from the ELIE SAAB Haute-Couture Fall-Winter 2012/2013 collection.

Photo credits: Elie Saab / Getty Images

The symbol of intrigue and drama, Gatsby is an embodiment of luxury, glamor and rebellion. The epoch, in which the woman was freed from a strict silhouette, replacing it with a daring and emancipated style. Down with the barriers and regulations, long live the passion and luxury!

As a testimony of that time, the collection is a blend of bold and refined shades. The palette of steel, beige and gold with vintage accents is animated by dazzling fluorescent colors, giving the models modernity and relevancy.

A fine adjustment of tissues with a flowing structure, transparent muslin and Moroccan crepe create a balanced and harmonious silhouette of the upcoming season, fresh and liberated.

Fringe and tassels – a reference to flappers and Art Deco prints – are playfully combined with embroidery and graphic lines. Inspired by the concept of “the less is more”, Rami Al Ali gives us a wonderful, elegant and colorful collection.

Photo credits: Rami Al Ali

Once again Yassen Samouilov and Livia Stoyanova spared no color. Known for their imagination and extravagance, they presented us with the world of insects à la haute couture.

In the collection there are trench coats, tuxedos, suits of transparent plastic reminding insect wings. Tutu skirts, leather bustier, gloves, embroidered with sequins and real scarab wings. In total there were almost 11,000 scarab wings from Thailand used in the collection. One of the outfits was completely embroidered with these pearl, blue and green “fingernails”, creating the impression of a veritable bug shell.

Blacks, gradually fading into bright colors, drawings of insects, lace prints – all that was very beetle-like.

The bride’s dress was striking: with two huge scarabs on the chest – very much in the style of the kingdom of insects.

Photo Credits: On Aura Tout Vu

Intrigued and fascinated by the uniqueness and spontaneity of the marble pattern, Jan tries to play it on his clothing models and accessories. Paints running on a calm water surface are transferred to the fabric, thus creating drawing of a “calm image.”

One of the main details in the Jantaminiau collection is an impressive bow, with which the designer adorns tops, blouses and jackets. Stand-up collar, completely covering the neck, is also an integral part of the collection. Following the season trend, he uses accentuated shoulder pads, thanks to which the silhouette gets an extra chic.

The predominant colors – pale pink, turquoise, beige, and gray-blue are diluted with bright cornflower and orange tones.

The main accessories of collection are large fabric beads, adding a folk note to the style.

Photo credits: Jantaminiau Couture

This season, the heroine of George Hobeika traveled all over the planet with a message of peace, lit by hope. Inspiring by her altruism, she symbolizes love, affection, tolerance and generosity.

Tender and fresh shades of blue, pink, white and gray, combined with bright shades of green apple and fuchsia, express her feelings. Models of crepe and organza, decorated with fragile crystals and natural pearls, embody invaluable wealth of her soul. Floral theme in all its forms (prints, embroidery, etc.) adds to the collection a unique aroma of blooming rose buds.

Slim-fitting shapes, open back with a triangular neckline, topped with a bow – George Hobeika breathes femininity, lightness and delicacy into each dress. In the strict models cut dominate Claudine collar and crew neck – a tribute to the chastity of his heroine.

Photo credits: Georges Hobeika

Perhaps one of the most accurate definitions of the modern haute couture gave Inès de la Fressange. An égérie, journalist and writer, who embodies the spirit of a true Parisian, at the end of the Chanel fashion show answered to a question about whether she liked the show: “If you want to understand what is haute couture today, look at the collection of Karl Lagerfeld.”

It, according to Karl himself, is the combination of “madness and discipline.” After all, behind each outfit there are thousands of hours of manual work.

Lagerfeld admits that he loves the effect of “optical illusion” or, as the French say, «trompe l’œil». So imaginary floral print on dresses is in fact a very fine embroidery, and seemingly familiar tweed turns out to be a lightest combination of silk, tulle and satin. All woven by hand, and you are very unlikely not find a similar fabric in a store. High fashion as the antithesis of mass consumption, where exclusive is opposed to industrial.

An ancient theater in a forest, in which was transformed the Grand Palais, the traditional venue for Chanel fashion shows, Karl saw in a dream. On the arena, covered with white sand, circle mannequins – sleepwalkers. The general atmosphere takes the spectators beyond reality. This is where, according to the designer, is the world of haute couture lies, and which will exist as long as people continue to dream.

Photo credits: CHANEL

Referring to the make-up, I was looking for specific dots on the forehead, and was surprised once again. Each model had a beauty mark, “mouche” above the upper lip. This is a well-known in Europe and in the East ladies’ accessory but is also a kind of language. A specific positioning of the “mouche” could tell a lot about its owner. In this case the beauty mark above the lip spoke of passion, sensuality, charm, flirtation, romanticism and fragility.

At the same time the cut of skirts and dresses suggested the “gypsy” theme. Indeed the collection was inspired by the bohemian Roma images: bright floor-length skirts, ruffles, open shoulders, multicolored patchwork, long earrings and wide belts. But the designer did not forget about his own “fashion codes”: a black tuxedo with accentuated shoulders, perfect trench coat, worn over a flowing dress, bold transparency and famous conical bra that once made Madonna a star.

In this, somewhat confused, state I was waiting for the apotheosis – the wedding dress. In it appeared a famous model Merie Meyer. The skirt on hoop frames, which is quite hard to wear due to its volume, but is convenient… to hide lovely kids underneath.

“Gautier”: I told myself. And then I stopped disturbing my brain with a search of explanations, preferring to enjoy the aesthetics of the spectacle and its originality.

Photo credits: Jean Paul Gaultier / P. Stable

The weightless volume is given to skirts by crinoline – a fabric with added horsehair. Thanks to it, translucent laced dresses look like is they were supported by invisible “crinolines” – underskirts, giving grandeur to the toilet. Another “atypical” for Elie Saab fabric is a fine silk tussah (shantung de soie). A dress with a train made of it is an embodiment of a soft elegance.

Delicate colors were selected by the designer according to the theme of the collection. Pastel of milk, ivory, lilac and pink gold is harmoniously “disturbed” by poppy accents to traditionally finish in black – the color present in every collection of Elie Saab.

Photo credits: Elie Saab Haute Couture

This is a rare and very valuable moment when you forget where you are and why you came here. Amazing music in a live performance, the air is filled with anticipation. And here they come in the glow of the floodlights. Snow-white sculptures made by an artist – you can hardly call them other way. Wool and crepe, be it an overall or a skirt or a cape: all look flawless. Mousseline, organza and gaze may not be the main part of the ensemble, just an insert, but is a “twist” that adds flavor.

White and black tissues are gathered into original flowers and flounces. Bugle beads lie loosely on dresses, sequins glitter: everything is in its place. The thin line between black and white is drawn by a “smoky” symbiosis of light and heavy materials.

Whatever the material chosen by maestro, whatever the critics say of the “similarity” of his collections, the result is amazing and thus important. Oh, yes … of whom do I speak? Of course, of the incomparable Stephane Rolland.

Photo credits: Stephane Rolland