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Milan PAP SS2018

Oct 16, 17 Milan PAP SS2018

“Made in Italy’’ in fashion remains a synonym to feminity and by this peculiarity protects, to a certain extent, Italian designers from all these destructive/ reconstructive or unisex trends shaking catwalks in other cities. We can talk about some predomination of gentle pastels in recent spring 2018 collections – in fact there were a lot of mint, blush pink, sky blue and nude palette:

Trends set earlier in New-York and London also emerge in Milan: such as Victorian touch, waist bags, pearl accessories or sheer raincoat that, nevertheless, in Italian version would not be confectioned of PVC but rather of same natural fabrics that could give such visual effect:

Still, here every fashion brand gives us its own and unique vision of traditional old-school seduction. If we try to highlight the major ones:

A glamorous feminity proposed by Donatella Versace in her mesmerizing and iconic collection paying tribute to her legendary brother:

Provocative masculine-feminine play so far away from showed elsewhere cross gender versions at Ermanno Scervino:

Inspired by ancient Persian/Indian motifs and cuts yet ultra-modern looks at Etro to mark 50th anniversary of the house:

Celebrating “l’amore”: native sunny Italy, good food, beauty and sense of humor at D&G extravaganza:

Playing in biker ballerinas (even if it is a little bit déjà vu) and bunch-of-flowers girls at Moschino:

A more serious approach: business lady minimalism at Max Mara (which is more Helmut Lang that Helmut Lang itself):

Though with a couple of making buzz ‘’Italian trend’’ outsiders, which are perfectly worthy to be mentioned, be it just to prove the general atmosphere: Gucci with its 80s shoulders, English tweeds, Disney and Sega references – the show where, as admitted by the designer himself, the venue, sound and light played as important role as the clothes itself (if not even more important). And Prada, whose fight for women right is strengthening, as she suggests militant women in a very practical way: cloths inspired by the 80s club and street style in London and New-York:

Definitely not as sexy as Missoni “Ibiza party” or not as romantic as Blumarine ethereal floor-sweeper dresses: