Fall-Winter 2017 Trends (part 1)
While New York and London are experiencing a real boom of the new Deconstructivism wave, revived by Demna Gvasalia in the capital of world fashion a few seasons ago, Parisian couturiers, having played enough with the oversize, asymmetry and androgyny, are returning to more traditional canons of design. Traditional, but with an eye on the contemporary context of course.
Even John Galliano, who unleashed himself in the last haute couture Maison Margiela collection, was quite restrained in his fall-winter ready-to-wear line. An unbridled creativity that glorified the once-eccentric fashion enfant terrible was only recalled by bags put on models heads similar to the Buckingham royal guards’ headwear.
Anthony Vaccarrello in the Saint Laurent collection recalls the late 80’s, promoting the look of a party girl – this is how the young designer perceives a muse of the legendary house “from the left bank”. Meanwhile, in response to complaints of feminists, French capital bans provocative posters [a half-naked model in fishnet tights on rollers in ambiguous poses] from the brand’s advertising campaign all over Paris.
An exquisite and moderately feminist collection was created by Buhra Jarrar for Lanvin. Last year, known for her architectural suites cut, she replaced Albert Elbaz, who, in the opinion of the brand owners, has lost a weak connection with the world of commercial reality. Spotted: fishnet tights are back to to fashion. Not so practical, but oh what a seductive accessory.
Among the most original, yet wearable, are pantsuits from the 27-year-old Simon Porte, who works for Jaquemus. Here Parisian elegance organically intertwines with the Provencal extravagance à la Christian Lacroix [who, at last got back to his favorite business, creating costumes for the Paris Opera troupe for “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” ballet performance]. And since the next winter a trouser suit will be a must, you wisely bet on this young and talented designer, whose signature is becoming more confident with every fashion marathon.
The theme of large shoulder jacked in the same 80’s spirit also developed in the fall collection of Dries van Noten, famous for his prints. The designer, unlike most of his northern European colleagues, privileges color, so if you are looking for a bright mustard – the undisputed favorite of the coming winter – check out the Belgian. Van Noten invited to the catwalk top models of the early 2000, thus supporting the initiative of preceding fashion capitals, where 16-year-old “new faces” walked together with gray-haired stylish “grandmothers.”
50 shades of blue presented in the new fall-winter collection for Christian Dior the first female creative director of the legendary house from the avenue Montagne Maria Grazia Chiuri. The designer paraphrased the quote from the brand’s “Fashion Dictionary”, which states that “among all the colors, dark blue is the only one capable of competing with black, possessing all of its qualities.”
In her second “independent” collection [prior to her appointment to Dior she worked in a duet with Pierpaolo Piccoli for Valentino for many years] Maria Gracia summed up all the best DNAs from Dior and Valentino and mixed with current trends: denim trouser sets, variations on the canonical “new look” silhouette, signature flowing dresses à la Valentino in an extremely popular on the podiums this season space theme.
“Space as an omen” – that’s how Karl Lagerfeld could have called his fashion-extravaganza. This time he equipped Chanel models to conquer distant galaxies. The whole world is not enough for fantasies of the great magician from fashion, and therefore under the arches of Grand Palais, accustomed to grandiose installations, the audience was awaited by a space shuttle, which ‘’took off’’ in the show final. The designer emphasized details and accessories – elements that allow him to “rejuvenate” the image of the fashion house from season to season, without changing the tweed heritage of Mademoiselle. Look what an interesting use was found by the fashion Kaiser for the sun-reflecting car-rugs!
I started this trends review with the name of Demna Gvasalia, who has every chance to become a Common name in the international fashion dictionary. So I will refer to him to end up finish my fashion forecast as well. In the collection that the designer presented for the Balenciaga house, floor and sun-reflecting car-rugs [the most “practical” of the next season trend], transformed by Demna’s fantasies into pencil skirts [monsieur Guasalia recently bought a car] adjoin couture looks – recreated for the first time by the fashion house after the death of Cristobal Balenciaga. Nine dresses closing show, meet all the requirements of high fashion standards [made entirely by hand in a Parisian atelier], are very close to archive sketches and inspired by the 100th anniversary of Maître, whose name is in gold letters inscribed in the history of French elegance and impeccable taste.