8 things to remember from SS2017 fashion week (part 1)
1. Designer of the week. Maria Grazia Chiuri became the new creative director of the legendary Christian Dior. For this honorary assignment the Italian broke her duo with Pierpaolo Piccioli, leaving him alone to work at Valentino. The name of Chiuri will be listed in the history as the first woman to head the Fashion House from 30, avenue Montaigne. Her first collection, unlike those of her numerous predecessors, turned out definitely successful. Fresh, constructive, skillfully playing the famous historical codes of the House, it is oriented towards the future and carries an important message: in the XXI century feminism is perfectly combined with femininity.
2. Style of the week: the Neo-Deconstructivism. The founders of this movement are Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo. Their Parisian collections of the early 80’s sounded like a caricature of European clothes. At that time the Japanese style collections were called «destructuree look». In it symmetry and centralization of the silhouette is broken, abandoning the canons of a “good taste”. New Wave of destructuree swept the podiums a few seasons ago. Designers led by stylists-provocateurs from Vetements plunged into the street style, forgetting that their most solvent customers are not 18 years old. Occurring as a result of micro-revolution, the transformation returned clothes back into reasonable frames, ennobling the protest look into a manageable state. Asymmetrical construct mixing textures in unexpected ways and oversize erasing gender borders – those inseparable from the deconstructivism elements are found in almost every collection of the fall season.
3. Construction of the week: sleeves. Reining for several seasons bare shoulders give way to sophisticated species of “lantern” sleeves: from medieval elongated and extending from the elbow like at Sonia Ryliel, to lush gigots at Elie Saab and Renaissance puffs at Alexander McQueen.
4. The most outspoken collection of the week. In his debut collection for Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello put an emphasize on transparent tops of black leather dresses. The Italian thus declared himself as a worthy successor of the great rebel from the left bank of the Seine river, which once shocked respectable public with women’s tuxedo.
Naked breasts from a militant feminists’ attribute and / or a tool of seduction turns into a regular part of the body, which can be shown, if desired, on a par with feet, shoulders or back. Designers in unison urge us to forget about bras and correction operations: we are beautiful as we are!