Couture can be different. It could be glaring, deliberately luxurious like at Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad, or futurist, as if inspired by creatures from parallel worlds like that of Bowie Wong or Jean Paul Gaultier. And there is one at Chanel, which, perhaps, cannot be group with anything else, so unique and original it is.
A quintessence of his vision of haute couture presented in the new collection for the fashion house from Cambon street never tiring to charm us Karl Lagerfeld. “Behind the girls, demonstrating the collection, there are 200 others, without whom it would not be possible. I think it’s time to show them all ” – explained the designer the concept of decoration of the Grand Palais, where traditionally Chanel holds its fashion shows. This time, under the glass dome of the exhibition palace moved along the entire atelier with all the inventory: sewing machines, pattern tables, fabrics, embroideries and stockmans. Employees continued to work as models strode the improvised catwalk along rows of guests.
Every new season Chanel invites us to an exotic journey across countries, eras and cultures. It looks like it’s time to get back to basics and remember why we’re gathering here from year to the year. In order to understand the essence of Chanel / Lagerfeld version of haute couture it is not enough to just watch the photos of the collection. Dresses need to be seen live, examined up close, touched, in order to figure out how these amazing 3D effects of stones, sequins and beads were created. One can argue about how these delicate flowers that adorn the milk foam color tweed suit are implemented: is it a satin stitching, an applique of finest feathers, or some new technique, whose now-how Karl, a kind of Merlin magician, keeps secret. Since the designer’s favorite effect – an optical illusion trompe-l’œil – is an echo of the specific sense of humor of a German who refuses to treat himself seriously.
When we say “Chanel”, we mean a tweed suit that remained virtually unchanged since the beginning of the last century. Every time Lagerfeld just refreshes the look, slightly modifying the cut. In the new couture collection the emphasis is made on the shoulders – they are hypertrophied, their line is geometric strongly, while the upper part of the silhouette appears flat in profile. Pants are short and wide. Black suede soft boots on a small thin heel combined with high gloves without fingers give a rock touch to the rather classic look.
The final bride walk is, as usual, far from the traditional canons: pale pink pantsuit with a broad jacket is supplemented by a cape with a train, embroidered with feathers from inside.
The originality of the Karl’s taste is inseparable from the common sense. Perhaps here lies the secret of his longevity, both professional and personal (although in this particular case, it appears to be the same).
Photo credits: Chanel