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Vionnet FW2014

Aug 22, 14 Vionnet FW2014

Goga Ashkenazi has always been a public persona. The desire to shine at social events, attracting the attention of the press by extravagant appearances and behavior is in her blood. Her latest project: the revival of the Parisian fashion house of Madeleine Vionnet – the cult modiste of the XX century (who left in the fashion history her signature “bias cut” and draperies), one can surely call bold and quite a risky initiative, ensuring a place in fashion chroniclers columns of the most prestigious publications.

Though, unlike some of her colleagues, the business woman does not claim to possess a designer talent, completely satisfied with a role of the brand owner. The selection of a couturier for the post of creative director of the fashion house is one of the major achievements of Ashkenazi, if not the most important. British Hussein Chalayan – and that’s him, who draws the models for Vionnet – has long earned the reputation of a talented and original designer and a permanent participant of the Paris fashion weeks. Architectural cut of Chalayan creations unifies designer with the style of the founder of the house and is reviving her spirit, as if continuing the work of the Madeleine, roughly interrupted by the World War II.

The fall-winter couture collection of Vionnet, consisting of twenty evening gowns, has become, perhaps, one of the most modern and glamorous at the passed haute couture. Light, illusory “simple” and at the same time authentic creation of Chalayan can be attributed to the “new haute couture”.

Delicate pastel colors, dominating the collection, are “woken up” several times by poppy bursts. Asymmetrical draping of the bustier dress’s lap; twisted in a spiral, entwining the hip basques and airy pleated dress in the spirit of ancient togas that inspired Madeleine – Hussein managed to combine key elements of the Vionnet house with his own view of the femininity of the XXI century.

For the final bow the owner and the creator appeared together, as if to say: one cannot be made possible without the other. Ambitions are satisfied, and Madeleine Vionnet would certainly have been happy.

Photo credits: Vionnet / Gianni Pucci