Go to Rissian version

Schiaparelli FW 2014

Aug 13, 14 Schiaparelli FW 2014

In front of Marco Zanini, chosen to the role of Elsa Schiaparelli successor in the reborn after sixty years of oblivion, was placed no easy task: on the one hand to recreate the spirit of the famous eccentric capable of wearing a shoe (invented by Dali) on a head and a lobster (painted by Dali) on a dress, and on the other make the brand modern, and therefore trendy. To turn daft surrealism of the thirties of 20th century into a utilitarian nonconformity of the second decade of 21st.

When creating the first collection last season, as admitted by the designer, Marco felt too much pressure. And it is clear why: too much responsibility, too many picky eyes were turned to him and his work in anticipation.

The new fall-winter haute couture collection turned more elaborate, daring and closer to the spirit of Elsa. Marco Zanini fully disclosed his design talents, thereby proving that the owner of Elsa Schiaparelli, Diego Della Valle, made no mistake with the choice of creative director. And here’s why:

Firstly, Marco is one of a kind. In the same way as Elsa in her time, he creates bizarre silhouettes, virtuously playing with codes of the house in a new, peculiar only to him, way. So, getting a closer look at the dresses, we will be surprised to discover “animal” theme drawings on them: a simple pleated skirt is hiding in its multiple folds Elsa’s favorite dogs – poodles, fox terriers and boxers. The natives of Central Park, squirrels and rats, run down the silk dress. Night moths stretch their wings on luxurious black velvet, while Parisian pigeons nestle on the final bustier dress with a bustle over the train.

Secondly, Marco creates a modern Haute Couture, combining hand craftsmanship with the latest technologies for the production of fabrics and materials. So the thickness of the crocodile skin, from which the skirt opening the show is made, is comparable with chiffon. Pierced with arrows bleeding hearts are embroidered by “petites mains” of Lesage. Monkey fur, from which seems to be sewn an eye catching bolero, turns to be black ostrich feathers coated with a very thin layer of glycerin. Without mentioning the original hats, specially created by Stephen Jones and accompanying almost every look – the lover of bizarre headwear Elsa Schiaparelli would surely have been delighted.

And finally, “shocking pink”, the only shade of pink “with insolence of red” – the signature of the bold surrealist style of Schiaparelli, which lacks so much modern haute couture, losing creative madness in favor of “wearability”. Zanini gave us back the stunning pink and, judging by his enthusiasm, is not going to stop there.

Once Elsa Schiaparelli was competing only with Gabrielle Chanel for the title of the most promising fashion designer. So we can only wish Marco Zanini to move a bit the everlasting creative director of Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, on the high fashion Olympus and to bring to the fashion world as much recklessness and humor as possible.

Photo credits: Schiaparelli Haute Couture


Related stories: