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PAP SS2013. New Generation

Oct 25, 12 PAP SS2013. New Generation

Luis Buchinho

Portuguese designer Luis Buchinho took for the basis of his new collection geometric blotches of bright colors (such as magenta) in the form of a strict, almost minimalist cut. Bold combinations of fabrics and colors, the play of sequins, a fresh look on the use of an almost forgotten pleating (Luis even managed to create pleated shorts!) – these are probably the main features of his new spring-summer season.

Luis Buchinho indulges us with fluid silk shapes, ruffles and bright, truly summer geometric prints.

Photo credits: MSW

Peachoo + Krejberg

This Indo-Danish duo, that created its own brand in France, presented to us variations on the theme of the trendiest black and white combination and a no less popular in this season translucency.

Models of their new collection is a mixture of gothic and romantic traditions, expressed in asymmetry, long fringe, hoods on dresses, embroidered with lurex and sequins, lots of crystals and layered fabrics.

Staying in neutral palette (black, white, gray and body colors), designer duo managed to create a truly “Baroque” collection.

Photo credits: MSW

Jean-Claude Jitrois

“King of the leather” – a French fashion designer Jean-Claude Jitrois, has created a new collection inspired by the sunlit stained glass chapel. Translucency and elegance of the structure, shades of blue, purple, red and orange, the use of sophisticated techniques of embroidery on leather, leather trimming with English laces – are all present in new and unique models. Making the leather soft and supple, Jean-Claude Jitrois went even further in his innovations: a combination of leather with other fabrics, such as silk and cashmere, is almost invisible to the eye. Preserving its thirty years old tradition, Jitrois fashion house continues to surprise its leather addict fans, including stars such as Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Jessica Alba.

Photo credits: Jitrois

Liu Fang

Chinese designer Liu Fang, who specializes in the creation of cashmere clothing, once again pleased the audience with originality, beauty and elegance of her knitwear.

The presence in the collection of only fabric – cashmere – and the only color – beige – did not tire. On contrary, it provoked admiration, because the models of Liu Fang were real works of art! Dresses with a huge knitted flower, fishnet leggings, tops the most bizarre forms … Eastern mystery and Western eroticism, softness and warmth of cashmere in a bold, even provocative, decision.

Photo credits: MSW

Shiatzy Chen

Liu Fang’s compatriot, Shiatzy Chen, presented a collection inspired by the traditional Chinese paper cutting (Jianzhi)

Each model is a story passed on from generation to generation. Ornaments are animals, people, flowers, and even entire landscapes.

The cut, however, remains balanced, almost classical. Fabrics used by the designer: silk, Jacquard – can create the effect of “jianzhi”. Tunics and dresses, embroidered with Swarovski crystals and finished with lacing, are combined with bright yellow-pink-turquoise accessories, celebrating the bond between Asian tradition and modernity.



Andrea Karg, a founder and a creative director of the German House Allude for the second time presented her collection in Paris. Her heroine is a bright, bold and provocative young woman in enormous sunglasses “a la pop” with bright scarlet sensual lips. Same bright and bold color decisions (red and turquoise, emerald and blue, yellow and green) however don’t shock. On the contrary, stimulate the desire to take a dip in the sea of “open” color. The transparency of “mesh” tops and similar skirts revives the feminine origin and the eternal aptitude for seduction.

Photo credits: MSW

Manish Arora

The new collection of Indian designer Manish Arora is a kind of a return to his roots: a bright blend of Eastern tradition and European modernity.

Exoticism in its modern interpretation; fabulousness and radiance of silhouettes.

Drawings of animals, plants and flowers on a background of the traditional golden-pastel tones; heavy jewelry, so common to Indian culture – Manish Arora was and is synonymous with innovation and nonconformity and never ceases to delight and amaze.

Photo credits: MSW

Please note that this article covers pret-a-porter collections