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Christophe Josse SS2012

Jan 25, 12 Christophe Josse SS2012

If not for the press release or Christophe Josse himself appearing at the end of the show for traditional bow, I would have thought that the summer haute couture collection belongs not only to different periods of creation, but also to a number of different designers. The starting points of the collection were on one hand – a modern architecture and design, and on the other – a more accustomed to the fashion house refined English painting of the nineteenth century. From the architecture side the museum of art of Islam, designed by architect I. M. Pei in Doha served as guidelines, as well as futuristic three-dimensional constructions of Zaha Hadid in Beijing, as well as streamlined and plastic works of Israeli industrial designer Ron Arad. The rigor of architectural tailoring is softened by delicate brush strokes of Frederic Leighton’s canvases.

The silhouettes are feminine but, following the combination of themes, are more geometric and therefore visually less fragile. Knee-length fitted pencil dresses, slightly expanded at the hips, with signature inlays of the finest lace streaks opened the show. They are followed by an ensemble of crepe blouse with a collar of blown glass in combination with a straight skirt, embroidered with delicate black and ivory fringes. Clean straight lines refer us to modern architecture.

Asymmetrical draped ivory wool gown changes the tone of the collection. And a couple of looks later, a black organza dress-coat, the entire surface of which is embroidered by hand, with fringes around the edges and thin black rhodoid plates, draws admiring applauses.

Several pastel looks – rose pleated bustier dress embroidered with ostrich feathers on the lower edge and a long ash-grey sheath dress with pockets decorated with blown glass – anticipate the diametrical change in the concept of the collection. Unusual for Christophe Josse vivid colours appear on the podium. Indian rose, deep amethyst and rich fuchsia which is successfullycombined with malachite. Silk crepe follows the body line, pleated muslin makes the silhouette weightless, and organza drape adds volume.

The collection is rounded up by luxurious floor-length evening gowns, which extravagance is created by asymmetry, deep neckline, open back and transparency.

Photo credits: Anna Marion / Haute Couture News – Russian Couture News

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